Moncler’s not so clear perfumes
Moncler is an Italian luxury clothing brand, mostly known for its skiwear, that was founded in 1952.
Standing for uniqueness, authenticity, quality and excellence, said brand also wishes to harbour the spirit of mountains. The firm initiated a collaboration with Interparfums, the french perfume maker, in order to launch a line of fragrances, and said collaboration will last until at least 2026. Moncler Pour Femme and Moncler Pour Homme is their initial line, released in 2021, comprised of one fragrance for men and one for women. In addition to that, they were conceived by Nisrine Grillié, Antoine Maisondieu, Christophe Raynaud and Quentin Bisch, talented perfumers, having created smells reminiscent of the mountainous spirit of the brand, but these perfumes differentiate themselves with their unique packaging. Indeed, the two new fragrances are encapsulated in special flask-shaped bottles, equipped with led displays which can exhibit customized messages through an app and bluetooth connectivity.
4A luxury company's ability to diversify is limited: A jeweller may succeed in launching a perfume, while a handbag designer may not. Brands are delicate, as they are linked to ideals and emotions that aren't appropriate for every product. Diversification into new sectors where you don't have a strong grasp can be dangerous. A brand should be motivated and truly support its brand history and origins before contemplating diversification and new product launch.
Furthermore, people may choose to purchase a brand's most well-known products over those that are not part of the brand's major legacy.
Remaining relevant is an arduous task in our oversaturated world of brands, and Moncler’s desire to branch out is quite understandable. The firm’s perfumes have rich smells reminiscent of mountainous themes, using the base note “mountain woods” as a common theme in both fragrances to remain decently close to the brand image. Moncler is a brand that promotes innovation, and these fragrances further bolster this aspiration, offering a fresh perfume experience and even a new fun interactive way of communicating with their LED display for a personalized gifting experience.
“The launch of the first Moncler fragrance line is part of our selective brand extension strategy to further enrich our customer experience [...]”, said Remo Ruffini, current president and CEO of Moncler. As a matter of fact, it is certain that Moncler released those perfumes from a strong desire for brand diversification. The firm had also unveiled in 2020 another collaboration with bike-creating company MATE, in order to release a limited edition eBike series. Such brand diversification promotes said brand and its coverage, which is especially relevant to cope with the uncertain times sprouted by the covid crisis.
Moncler closely collaborated with Interparfums all throughout the development of the perfume, in order to deliver a fragrance of quality and ensured their product would have a point of difference with other perfumes. But a mountainous smell and innovative packaging may not be enough. Indeed, despite a design compatibility with the spirit and elegance of the brand, these products may alter its image. As cautious as it is, this is a risky move.
The firm’s fragrance is encapsulated in a special bottle; but this packaging may very well be perceived as a gimmicky gadget, resulting in a loss of trust towards the brand.
Moncler is taking two risks with its diversification strategy: causing customer confusion and jeopardizing the brand's authenticity.
Not only would the resulting confusion lead to loosening the tie between skiwear and the consistent brand image. But, maybe even worse, by contradicting itself, Moncler risks losing clients for good. Consumers are perceptive, to be sure. Brands are noticed and listened to. They have placed their faith in them. However, once a consumer's faith in a brand is damaged, it is irreversible.
The doomsday scenario, however, is not the only possibility. Indeed, Moncler's attempt at brand extension has the potential to not only improve the client experience but also to strengthen the brand's position. If that's the case, it wouldn't be the first high-end fashion house to venture into scent with unmistakable success. It's easy to think of Chanel, which was formerly a high-fashion label.
As an option to ensure brand extension without endangering brand authenticity damage, Moncler could consider creating a new brand from scratch to brand its fragrance. Like the car brand Cintroën, which launched the DS brand in order to make a place for itself in the premium market, where it could not have survived with its entry-level image. The new brand would not benefit from Moncler's goodwill, but would still have access to its customer base and considerable resources.
Regarding Moncler’s current fragrance activity, the firm should aim at developing other points of difference for the following fragrances, in order not to create fatigue.
Perhaps this act of diversification will prove to be a strike of genius that will allow Moncler to diversify its brand coverage, but the risks of confusion or other inadequacies towards the taste of customers might still damage the image of the brand.
The Luxaholic Team
REFERENCES
The flip side of diversification, Fabio Bonavita, 17.7.2020
https://www.luxurytribune.com/en/the-flip-side-of-diversification
Moncler Genius and MATE Come Together on an eBike for Urban Riding and Mountain Exploration, Nicolaus Li, 6.5.2020
https://hypebeast.com/2020/5/moncler-genius-mate-x-indiegogo-release
Moncler pour Femme et Moncler pour Homme: Un nouveau chapitre de l’histoire de la marque d’origine alpine née en 1952, 7.10.2021
https://www.interparfums.fr/moncler-pour-femme-et-moncler-pour-homme/
Moncler's Perfumes Have Customizable Light-Up Message Panels, Laura McQuarrie, 6.10.2021
https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/monclers-perfumes
Moncler Launches Its First-Ever Fragrances, 10.5.2021
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